2024 CONNECTING SPIRITS COMMUNITY TOUR: The Journey of Remembrance continues.

Twenty-three years ago, a group of students and staff from Mount Barker High School, took part in an overseas WW1 commemorative trip to Europe to travel to the graves and memorials of World War One soldiers who the group had a connection to. ‘Remembrance 2001’ and a second tour, R2004 evolved into a new project known as ‘Connecting Spirits’ and its twenty-year narrative has been well documented and is outlined on the Connecting Spirits website at www.connectingspirits.com.au  

In the very first tour in 2001, our group ventured overseas starting our journey in Turkey with Macit Saszade as our guide. Twenty-three years on Macit would once more be our guide. Meeting up with Macit once more seemed like those two decades were only moments from yesterday and it was a joy to be working with him again after the passing of so many years.

Our group of 14 weary travellers arrived in Istanbul after the rigors of long-haul flights plus a lengthy stayover at Changi airport in Singapore but we hit the ground running! Istanbul’s largest city with a population of over 16 million people: Macit says the figure is closer to 18 million but officially that is debated. We arrived at the end of the Holy month of Ramadan and preparations for the end of the fasting period would see many celebrations in the next few days. Added to this was the visit of important political figures to Istanbul in the area of the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque, so security was evident everywhere as we navigated our way through massive crowds.

We walked around the Sultan Ahmet Square located in the heart of historical and cultural centre of Istanbul and learnt about ancient Hippodrome, the stadium of ancient Byzantium. Nearly two thousand years ago, over 100,000 spectators would attend sporting events and horse racing at this stadium and today the square features objects from the parts of the Byzantine empire. The most significant are the Egyptian obelisk and the bronze sculpture of three entwined serpents from the Greek island of Delphi. As we moved around the square Macit told us about the dogs and cats of Istanbul that freely roam the city. They are friendly and well fed as the city and its people see that the care of the animals is a community responsibility and a civic duty.   Water and food bowls are everywhere.

From there we went underground to the fabulous Basilica Cistern …the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul. Water was pumped into these storage systems via the viaducts built in Byzantine times and recently this heritage site has undergone significant restoration. It was just superb.

From then it was lunch was at the Pudding Shop, and I had fond memories of eating here in 2001…it did not disappoint! Our final adventure was to battle with the crowds and sellers at the Grand Bazaar, the covered markets including over 3,500 shops. A final coffee stop and then it was time to head for our hotel the lovely Movenpick Hotel. Showers/dinner and SLEEP awaited us. What a start to the tour!

The 2024 Connecting Spirits Community Tour group

Coen and Thomas Pearson are the youngest of our group: they are being

'looked after' by the whole group Isabell and Jeremy ...all is good!! Don't worry mum and dad.

The underground cisterns of Istanbul

Dogs and cats rule the city.

Turkish food is the BEST!!!

Night view from the hotel. 

Reginald Harrington's Journey of Remembrance: Final Blog Post (8)

 Reg's journey comes to an end.

As our 2022 Connecting Spirits Community Tour comes to the final week, we also reflect on the end of Lieutenant Reginald Harrington's wartime journey. His letter in May 1918 stated his belief he would now finally be going home. However Reg's health deteriorated quickly and the final letter he wrote to his wife Edith, is difficult to understand and shows his rapid decline. He wrote:

'14 May 1918 ( Royal Victorian Hospital Netley, UK) 

My Dear Darling Ediss

Just a note to let you know I am...tho sound living Dr. says yes...I am losing all...about in a couple of months.

Heaps and Heaps of Love and kisses darling

From your old man.'

Lieutenant Reginald Harrington DCM died on 10 June 1918 and was buried with full military honours in the Netley Military Cemetery on 13th June at 2.00 pm. The Chaplain to the hospital the Rev. F.W Bennett-Symond officiated at the interment. The details from the burial report state:

'The coffin was a good polished elm and the deceased officer was accorded a full military funeral. The coffin was draped with the Union Jack and surmounted by a beautiful wreath. Gun Carriage, Band, Firing Party, Buglers and Pallbearers under the command of an Officer, were present.  Prior to the interment a service was held in the Garrison Church, Netley. Several officers ( patients in the Netley Military Hospital ) were present and acted as Pallbearers. A party of about 50 Australian soldiers followed the remains to the cemetery. The grave will be turfed, and an oak cross erected by the AIF. Lieutenant Balfour, Administrative Headquarters, AIF London, represented the AIF at the funeral.'

One more letter ends this tragic narrative, written by the nurse who cared for Reg at Number 3 General Hospital in France. Katie P. wrote to Edith on 6th October 1918:

'France 6 October 1918

Dear Mrs. Harrington

Your letter has juts reached me and I'm terribly grieved to hear about your husband having died soon after getting to England. We were proud to get him over and he wrote twice to me from Netley saying he wished he were back here with us at No. 3 General. 

You must know he was terribly ill and fought for every inch of his life. Many men would have died long before. But he was a Splendid fighter and his one idea was to get back to you and his little girl. It was very sweet to see him with your photos beside him. Practically blind but wanting to have you near.

Dear Mrs. Harrington please accept my very sincere sympathy. The only consolation you can have is that your husband died for his King and Country and nothing finer could we have. We are very busy now. I'm on this Ambulance train taking down the wounded to the hospitals.

With Kindest Regards

Katie P.'

Today on Saturday 9 October 2022, these final letters were read out at the grave of Reginald Harrington in remembrance of his extraordinary story. Prior to the commemoration our group had a private tour of the Netley Chapel, the only remaining part of the hospital and to read out the details of his funeral in the chapel we visited, was a moving and profound moment of this tour. On this sunny autumn day this man from South Australia, his wife Edith  and little daughter Gwen, were honoured by our group. The Last Post was played and the Ode read on behalf of the Harrington family back home in South Australia. 

Lest We Forget.

 

(A detailed blog about Netley will follow at a later date.) 

The original hospital opened in 1863 and treated thousands of patients over the century it operated. Only the chapel remains of this massive building.

The chapel as it is today.

Looking up to the chapel from the landing site on the Southampton waters.

Lieutenant Reginald Harrington's grave at the adjacent cemetery. 

(Photo credit : Julie Reece 9 October 2022) 

Reginald Harrington's Journey of Remembrance: Blog post 7

 It's back to Blighty for Reg...

 After a day exploring the historic town of Canterbury it's time to resume our journey of commemorations. Our destination for the next few days is on the Salisbury Plains based in Amesbury. We will complete the final dedications to the 2022 soldiers and also reach the final part of Reginald Harrington's journey. 

Picking up Reg's story after his investiture and brief leave in England and Scotland he briefly returned to France on 17 June but one month later in July it was back to England for various training responsibilities in Oxford and on the Salisbury Plains. On 5th December 1917 Reginald Harrington proceeded to France once more to re-join the 59th in the field. The next 5 months saw ongoing sickness and hospitalisations until April 1918 in the final year of the war. Harrington was wounded in action resulting in poisoning and blindness from a gas attack. On May 1st 1918 Reg wrote to his wife Edith reinforcing his desire to just go home. He wrote:

'9 May 1918 ( Hospital in France - just before returning to England) 

Have had a nasty time dear old girl but am Cheerio again. This is the first try I have had at writing for over a fortnight ...was quite blind this is only a film now. Doc says I am doing tip top...very pleased with me and is sending me to England in a day or so where I should pick up a treat. They have been so very good to me here and have also written to you for me once or twice. 

I  have had several letters from home which the Padre has read to me and two, one from Dad and Mum dated March 10th which after  long time I was able to read myself, getting better everyday my Sweetheart and have those snaps of Gwen and you and Rene by me to cheer me up.

Heaps and heaps of love darling...it means HOME this time.

Loving Hubby.'

The White Cliffs of Dover were the signal to Reg and his peers of some respite from the front lines of the western front.

(Photo credit: Julie Reece- 2022 tour) 

Reginald Harrington's Journey of Remembrance: Blog post 6

 From France to Buckingham Palace to Scotland and back to the front in Belgium...Reg's war drags on.

The 2022 Connecting Spirits group have crisscrossed the Somme heading north to the Ypres region in our first week on tour. The horrors of the Somme and now the Ypres Salient have been thoroughly  shared with our battlefields expert Rod Bedford. And as we reflect on the parallel journey of Reginald Harrington, his narrative takes him back to dear old Blighty for his investiture at Buckingham Palace to receive his Distinguished Conduct Medal from the King. Over the last year of 1916-17 however, Reg is finding the separation from his beloved 'wifey' and little Gwen becoming harder to endure. He writes:

'9 April 1917 (FRANCE) 

Since writing my letter of a few days back I have had some wonderful luck. You will remember I told you of a little incident that happened in the advance, well the higher authorities seemed fit to send my name in dispatches and the result was that your old man after 32 months of varied experiences has been awarded the Distinguished Conduct Medal. What do you think of that Mrs. Reg?  Just how I would love to see your face when you get the news, it will help to make up for a lot won't it darling? If ever I get back to Blighty I shall get a little miniature brooch made of  the medal so my own brave little woman shall be able to wear the honour as well....Heaps and heaps of love and kisses my sweetheart to both yourself and our darling baby from your ever loving and affect hubby

Reg.

5 June 1917 (LONDON)

I was given charge of the Australians to be decorated and marched them round to the Wellington Barracks where we were checked off and told  off to different carriage buses to which we were driven through Hyde Park to the spot, there was a big crowd. At the ground we were all taken off  to the chains with our numbers on them. Mine was No. 127 and we were again checked and then some big wig came along  and put hooks into our tunics.  By this time the crowd had got jolly dense  and we were  all wishing it was over. Then some more big wigs got up into the dais and then the Queen Mother arrived. The shouts were deafening but really she is wonderful woman. She had some funny old things with her and then came along the King, Queen and Princess Mary the latter a little darling , now don't be jealous my pet, I am not allowed to call. But everyone loves the Princess, dressed very quietly and just a slip of a girl she is awfully popular with the public. The Queen looked splendid, then there was all the frillies to be gone through, but the whole show was very simple.

Then the show started and one by one the fellows went up to the King along a sort of race up to him and down a race back to his seat, as you marched  up to him your number, rank and name was called out and so after what seemed like ages I stood before the King saluted. He hung the medal  on the hook and then said "Have you just come over from France for this?" I answered yes Sir. " I am afraid you have had some very hot work over there. Were you in the last lot of fighting?" I said yes Sir except for Bullecourt. The the King said, " I think all you Australians have done wonderfully well indeed. I congratulate you all."

Somehow dearie I can't enjoy this sort of thing it was bad enough when I was over here before and if anything worse this time. I can always see the front ahead of me ... can't get it out of my mind and shan't so long as I have to go back. On Sunday I got down to the river at Richmond but had a mad fit on me, felt utterly miserable and could not keep still for a  second. I walked for miles  and eventually got back to London and was wondering what was the best to do when another good  old pal of my old troop in the 4th Light Horse yelled put to me and came running across. 

Next day I reported  and was given leave till the 13th . I booked a ticket to Inverness and tonight my very own sweetheart  I leave for Bonny Scotland and a good clean country...Only one fly in the ointment wifey and that is I am on my own, I want you ever so badly, more than ever I want my wife and baby and if it was not for the hope the prayer that one day I shall get back to you darling, everything would finish for me. Some day dear girl and then please God I shall be worthy of you. 

Heaps of love my sweetheart both for yourself and our darling for ever.

Your loving and affectionate husband

Reg.

15 February 1918 (BELGIUM)

Time goes on my sweetheart and there still seems no better chance of my getting back to you, for a sight of home and my lover ones is all I need to back me up again. This week I wrote out  an application for leave to Australia...goodness only knows if it will receive any consideration...

Here it is cold dear at stand to at 5 o'clock this morning I tell you I nearly froze... This part is fairly quiet just now dearie: we are on the Messines Ridge. 

2 March 1918 (BELGIUM)

 I have headed this letter Belgium, in fact it is correct,  but from where I am writing is a nice little Pill Box. You have read of them, they are part of the Bosch system and a pretty good one too they come in jolly handy to us though for one can keep warm in them no matter how cold it is outside. Today it has been raining and snowing, bitterly cold all round but I suppose it won't be long now before we have the warmer weather with us.

So far my sweetheart I have kept out of harm's way and so go on hoping. ...And now my sweet wife I must finish up ..it has been inky dark tonight but the moon  will be up soon and I shall have to start work. Kiss my daughter for me my wifey and store up heaps and heaps for your own dear old self with all my love darling from

Your ever loving and affec hubby

Reg.' 

Buckingham Palace and Hyde Park (taken during the 2019 tour)

Back to Belgium : Poperinge - behind the front lines

Reg refers to the pillbox: these block houses are still standing across northern France and in the Ypres Salient.

Photo credit: Julie Reece September 2022

Reginald Harrington's Journey of Remembrance: Blog Post 5

 Onto the battlefields...

The last three days the group have been immersed in the narrative of the Somme battles and commemorations of our relatives and those of our broader local networks, have been the centre of our journey. The battles at Villers Bretonneux, Hamel, and across the valley to Albert, Thiepval, Mouquet Farm, Pozieres and Dernacourt were explained in detail by our battlefields expert, Rod Bedford. We visited many key sites including the chateau at Bertangles where Monash was knighted in the field. The evidence of the war still leaves its traces with the landscape revealing many of the old trench lines, craters and occasional shell casing or other bits of the 'iron harvest'. One of the most extraordinary sites were the ancient caves at Nours where thousands of examples of graffiti scratched into the rock by the WW1 soldiers, can be viewed underground.  (a separate post will follow about this site).

Over a century ago this landscape was a very different place, one that Reginald Harrington describes in some detail in his letters to his wife Edith as he recalls his first experiences on the Somme :

'4th June 1917:

We travelled by train in what we call at home 'box trucks'. We lived in them for 3 days and used to get off and light fires alongside the track and boil our dixies. The line was crowded with trains so far as I could see...there were trains...trains...miles of them. Gradually we reached Albert  our base and an air fight was going on. The air just seemed alive with shells bursting around some planes, the Huns had only an hour or so before the station and there was mess everywhere.

We marched out to our billets at Dernancourt and ...then we moved up further to the rear in motor buses. I have never seen so many and at night you could see the lights twinkling for miles. 

The roads were fearful , just a deep slush up and over your ankles. All this part of the country was just riddled with shell holes and only old trenches and broken wire, some where the lines have been.

Then comes Bullecourt, that graveyard of Australian soldiers...Bullecourt will be a painful name in thousands of Australian homes . It was by far the worst bit of hill they have come to yet.'

Albert - the famous golden Madonna the troops nicknamed Fanny Durak after the Australian Olympic diver.

Shell casings  are commonplace on the Somme - known as  the 'Iron Harvest'

Rod Bedford explaining the nature of trench warfare at Beaumont Hamel, a Canadian site.

The Digger memorial at Bullecourt

Commemorating Ngarrindjeri soldier Arthur Walker at Mouquet Farm. 

(All photos taken by Julie Reece, September 2022)