Our 5 days in Positano had come to an end and it was time to repack, load up the expanding cases and make the gut busting climb up the steps for the last time. As we struggled with all the bits and bobs of our various shopping exploits, the young muscly porters carried our cases on their shoulders up the steps with extraordinary ease while we were all left to puff up each tortuous section. Our calf muscles will be like steel by the end of the tour!
It was an early start and had to be up that hill ready to meet our driver Peppie by 7.30 am. The drive across Italy to the very different region of Puglia would be a long one so a couple of stops broke the journey. At 10.30 we had a tour of the La Strega distillery in Benevento the digestivo famous worldwide for its bright yellow colour and unique flavour. Strega was developed in 1860 by father-son team of Carmine Vincenzo Alberti and Giuseppe Alberti. Over the years the company became well known for its colourful and artistic advertising including fabulous posters designed in 1906 in the art nouveau style. Once again it was time to shop and some very special treats were loaded up into our already packed vehicle. While in Benevento Rosa had a special though very brief reunion with her cousin Olga and her children including lots of kisses for their much loved Australian cousin. After a very yummy lunch it was back to the freeway for the final stretch through the many kilometres of olive groves and vineyards.
The history of Puglia is one of serial conquest, subjugation and settlement. Its climate and more importantly, its geographical position have always made it a favourable place to settle, or at least control. Our home for the next 6 days would be in the trulli of Alberobello. The trulli (plural of one trullo) , the characteristic cone shaped roof houses of Alberobello make up one of the 53 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Italy. Originally constructed using dry stone building techniques without mortar, many of these unique settlements have been restored for either permanent habitation or tourist accommodation. No 100 steps up and down the side of a cliff to get to the front door here! !!
However on arrival after some drenching rains and storms we arrived late to blacked out dwellings due to power failures! !! They must have heard we were from South Australia! ! However with the aid of a candle and the light from my mobile phone, the amazing Rosa Matto was still able to concoct a meal to feed the hungry group. Wine and Strega eased the introduction to Alberobello and in the end we turned it into a bit of a picnic in the dark! Sleep came quickly!
Thursday, 26 October 2017
Farewell Positano and off to Puglia
Wednesday, 25 October 2017
Tuesday, 24 October 2017
White knuckle ride along the Amalfi coast
On our last day in this glorious region of Italy, it was off to Amalfi and Ravello using local buses for the journey. This journey took us to the tourist Mecca of Amalfi along the coast road, an experience not for the faint-hearted! The road is narrow and steep and to watch the bus drivers throw their vehicles around each hair pin bend is an experience I won't forget in a hurry. However the views are just incredible and once you calm your nerves as you peer down over the last remaining inch of road down to the sea, and believe that you WILL be ok and death isn't necessarily going to be the outcome. ..then it's one hell of a ride. Coming to Amalfi in October has some real benefits as the tourist season is slowing down with many hotels, restaurants and shops closing down for the winter at the end of the month. So visiting here in the final weeks of the season makes for comfortable touring. After a leisurely stroll through the main centre of the town plus a visit to the impressive cathedral , tummies were rumbling. Rosa took us for a climb up the hill through a tunnel which connected Amalfi with the smaller town of Atrani and after a bit of a search found the little restaurant recommended to her. We were the only guests so the lovely waiters were rather attentive. The food was just divine. ..Mary said her pillows of ravioli was the best meal she'd has so far...Rosa and Dana opted for a pasta and potato dish..superb and my home made pasta with creamy prawns was simply to die for! I couldn't even fit in the chocolate tiramisu...however I did have a divine double scoop ice cream for morning tea! !
Our final place for the day was Ravello and the magnificent gardens of the villas Ruffalo. OMG! The wow word dominated with elegant sculptures with the coastal views as the back drop were just amazing. As our feet and legs screamed out 'NO MORE STAIRS PLEASE " it was time to venture back to Positano. The bus rides were again a challenge and it was a very late end to a day which had everything. Despite being dead on her feet Rosa managed to produce another fabulous dinner largely from the leftovers in the fridge. It could have been from a first class eatery! Boy can that woman cook!!! Our packing awaited as the start time tomorrow was just after 7.00 for the long drive across the peninsula to Alberobello in Puglia. Positano is a gem...5 nights this time. ..maybe double that next time.
Monday, 23 October 2017
Heaven does exist: it's called Positano
As our time in this magical place draws to a close, it's time to reflect on our stay here in this beautiful part of the Italian coast. Firstly this place does provide some challenges and the twisting hair pin bends on the roads and steep landscape can be physically challenging for those with mobility issues. However what you get in return are breathtaking views over the sea which constantly change and create many 'wow' moments. Cafes and restaurants cling to the edge and there's nothing better than spending time with a spritz or two just taking it all in. The traffic is like going on an adventure ride each day as coaches, cars and motor scooters play dodge cars with only millimetres to spare. In saying this however the drivers here are so much better than ours at home. They don't hesitate and confidently make moves. ..you have to. ..it's just the way it is here but for those of us from sleepy South Australia it is a real education in panic control! !! And of course the food!! So much has been written about Italian food but words fail to express the sheer joy this cuisine provides. Street food is everywhere but not the chain rubbish like the global players such as the golden arches types....here simplicity and freshness are the order of the day. Divine. I will select a couple of highlights to focus on for separate blogs but today it's off to Amalfi and Ravello for another white knuckle ride along the coast in a local bus. Ciao for now!